Fuller busts are heavy (can weight up to 1.5-2kg each) and pose a number of challenges for a bra maker:
- Weight distribution is critical for the health of the backbone;
- Support bust in its natural position through movement without restraint – breasts move in a sinusoidal shape, which makes the task akin to building a suspension bridge;
- Breathability – sensitive warm mass is prone to irritation and skin infections;
- Giving shape – framing the bust attractively and fitting it under clothing.
Everything in the design is subjected to delivering on the challenge:
(1) Wider elastic at the band enhances the stability and prevents roll-up;
(2) Tall centre panel for greater support and coverage;
(3) Breathable cotton-lined cups, full coverage cup structure to keep the breast in its place;
(4) Steel enamel coated underwire – fuller busts require firm underwires;
(5) Wider cushioned straps help distribute the weight between back and shoulders;
(6) Tall wings help manage the bulge and hug the body without ‘travelling’;
(7) Leotard strap join (J-shaped like ballerina’s leotard) to support greater weight effectively (as opposed to the right angle meant for lighter weight)
(8) Larger closure at the back – 3 row-hooks on cups 40E (and equivalent across bands) and over;
(9) In-cup power sling runs along cup sides to shape and lift the breasts;
The choice of the material is important (not discussed here): it must be quality, durable and resilient, in line with the weight and pressure/stretch it handles.
We have a separate post dedicated to bra elements and their function to help you with terminology.
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